IV. Conservation Landscaping Nuts and Bolts—General Guidelines

The following chapter is excerpted from the newly released conservation landscaping primer entitled, Ecoscaping Back to the Future...Restoring Chesapeake Landscapes. Click here to order your copy!

The supreme accomplishment is to blur the line between work and play.
–Arnold Toynbee, British Historia

Gardening is an educational process that lasts a lifetime. Its diploma consists of a green thumb, a happy heart and a permanently enlarged soul. If you’re ready for an advanced degree, Mother Nature is anxious to teach. Her class is always in session. –Author Unknown.

WHERE TO BEGIN?

“Plan your work, then work your plan” is a familiar saying and good advice that bears repeating, especially to gardeners. Alexander Pope wrote, “All gardening is landscape painting.”  Before you begin your masterpiece, reduce it to paper. When developing your design, consider such matters as site conditions, your own tastes, your impacts on the landscape, and how to improve same. It’s been said, “Thoughtful preparation will pay more dividends than a wheelbarrow full of fertilizer.”  So remember, plan your work, then work your plants.

OBTAINING AND CREATING A SITE MAP

When starting on your home landscape or community project, it is important to first obtain or create a map of the site as it currently exists so that you will know what you have to work with. This will enable you to plan appropriately and to minimize unnecessary work, expense, and other problems. You can use a copy of a tax map, a topographic map of the area, or survey of the property; or you can create your own site map by taking measurements of the area. Transfer the measurements onto a piece of graph paper to produce a scale base map. The scale of landscape maps and drawings are usually 1/4 inch equals one foot, 1/8 inch equals one foot, or 1/16 inch equals one foot.

Then add to your scale base map permanent features that exist on the site, such as buildings, accessory structures, walkways, lights, water sources, utility right-of-ways (sewer, septic, water, etc.), and existing beneficial plants. Remember to consistently use the same symbols throughout the drawing; for example, use one symbol per type of plant. Feel free to make up symbols or copy ones you have seen on plans (there are no set standards). Add a reference key to indicate what the symbols stand for.

A good way to unleash your creative energy and not worry about your drawing ability or unnecessarily redrawing your scale base map is to create an overlay map, which can be created on tracing paper placed over the base map. Scale overlay maps are good for creative experimentation as well as indicating, for example, drainage problem areas or existing microclimates. Areas of shade, surface depressions with moist soil, wind tunnels or slopes can form a microclimate worth noting on your map.

GATHERING INPUT

With maps of your site in hand, gather input from observation and discussion with family members, school or group members, and others sharing the landscape. Take time to walk through the landscape several times to study it and recognize the possibilities for the site. Give yourself time and enjoy the creative process.

Site considerations:

•   Climate

•   Topography

•   Soil type (moist, wet, dry, loam, clay, sand, acid, or alkaline).

•   Light conditions for planting areas (full sun, or full to partial shade).

•   Water sources, including access to water for newly installed plants. 

•   Existing vegetation and animals, including insects.

•   Past land use (e.g., debris may have been landfilled in an area).

•   Human-made structures (buildings, decks, patios, sidewalks, fences, utility rights-of-way, etc.).

•   Traffic patterns of people in vehicles and on foot, including sports and play areas; traffic patterns of wildlife.

 

Some of the questions you may consider are:

What are the practical uses of the site?  What about service areas, for example, garbage cans, work space, clotheslines, and storage?  Is recreation space for people as well as pets needed?  Will portions of the current landscape be retained?  What species of wildlife do you want to attract to the landscape?  Will there be a vegetable garden?  How will maintenance be handled?  Are there local ordinances to consider?

Now is also a good time to take a soil sample of the areas to be planted. A soil test kit can be obtained from your local county extension office (check the blue pages of your telephone directory), or from garden supply centers. Knowing the soil characteristics of the designated planting areas is important to select appropriate plants for the site.

Remember, the evaluation process will be ongoing, just as a garden is a growing, living thing and is never complete. As well, nature may decide—independent of your ideas—to edit your landscape. With these considerations in mind, sketch out your desired results. Modify your plans and ideas as needed.

DEVELOPING A GARDEN DESIGN

I have never had so many good ideas day after day as when I work in the garden. ­–John Erskine

Conservation landscape design is the arrangement of plants, water features, stone, accessory features, and the working with or creating of contours in
a landscape to enhance it for our use, enjoyment, wildlife needs, and the overall health of the environment. A good design will unify the landscape
as a whole.

A good starting place in developing your design is to take or collect photographs of the natural areas that inspire you. Use these for ideas to change your traditional landscape into one that is more environmentally friendly. Photos can provide helpful design ideas for your project. Also, it is very instructive to take before, intermediate, and after photos of your landscape project.

After gathering input, you are ready to begin designing your garden. There is more than one approach to landscape design; however, imitating nature’s designs—arrangements, patterns, colors, and textures found in nature—can provide the best results. The following guidelines will facilitate the design process.

 

Basic principles of design to keep in mind:

•   You may find it helpful to begin with the shape of your design. Consider a variety of curvilinear forms. For example, create a sun-shaped area for a raised xeriscape (drought tolerant) planting bed. Work with or create contours in the landscape, for example, swales for rain gardens. For a naturalistic garden effect, remember that nature tends to design in curves, rather than straight lines.

•   Consider emphasizing natural features in your yard, such as existing trees, swales, and depressions, to create a rain garden or a pond, or dry areas to create a xeriscape garden.

•   Place plants in appropriate growing conditions. Vegetation will grow and thrive if you plant the right plant in the right place. For example, a plant that requires dry soil and sun won’t thrive in a wet, shady location, and vice versa. Know the site conditions and research the plants you wish to use.

•   Research your plants to become familiar with their mature size;
leaf structure; bloom color, shape, time of year, and duration; wildlife benefits; and look throughout the season, such as whether selected plants are evergreen or not.

•   Plant in drifts (massing of like plants). For example, drifts of the same plant strategically located within a meadow (which is a varied mixture of native grasses and wildflowers) can create dramatic effects.

•   Consider the needs of wildlife—water, food, shelter, and space—the ingredients necessary in the landscape to support and attract wildlife. A wide variety of plants in the landscape will attract the most species by providing these necessary elements. The spatial arrangement of food, water and cover is important, both to attract wildlife and to decrease competition among species. When planning your habitat garden, connect planting beds to create wildlife corridors where possible. Corridors provide areas in which wildlife can safely travel to meet their needs.

•   Consider layering your plant arrangements. For example, create a gradual transition from grasses and wildflowers to shrubs to under-story trees to canopy trees for a more natural look and greater wildlife benefits. Varied layers provide a range of light, temperature, food, nesting, and hiding areas for wildlife.

•   Plan your garden with seasonal changes in mind. For example, in addition to spring-blooming plants, consider four-season gardening by adding summer- and fall-blooming plants, as well as plants that have winter interest.

•   Even a small garden can benefit from adding a path. Paths help direct traffic, facilitate maintenance of the garden, and can enhance the design and use of the garden. Consider the traffic flow through the property. You can direct people where you want them to go, or not go, by your path placement; but also take notice of the paths people naturally create. It generally works better to go with the flow. Various types of mulch make a good surface for paths; and don’t forget to control weeds by adding an underlying layer of weed-blocker fabric, newspaper, or cardboard.

CREATE A GARDEN PLAN

Take your site map—keeping the principles of design in mind—and sketch in the location of plants, paths, and other elements for the entire site. This will also help you phase in the project in stages if you can’t accomplish it all at once. Use either tracing paper and pencil, or grease pencil and clear plastic. Place the tracing paper or plastic over the base map. Begin by designating the human elements to include from your input-gathering exercise, such as recreation areas or a vegetable garden; then begin defining shapes, placing trees, shrubs, and herbaceous perennials, stone, and special features. Sketch possible natural elements you wish to enhance, such as a swale for a rain garden. As you add plants to your sketch, remember to use consistent symbols and make a reference chart for the symbols.

SITE PREPARATION

Site preparation varies widely depending on circumstances. It can be quick and simple, especially if you have the help of heavy machinery such as a bobcat, or it can sometimes take more time and effort than planting the garden. Before you dig in any area, it is critically important that you call Miss Utility (1-800-257-7777, from 7 AM to 5 PM unless it is an emergency, in MD, DE, and DC) no less than (and preferably more than) two business days ahead to locate any underground service lines or utilities that may be located where you intend to plant. Miss Utility will make all of the arrangements with utility, cable, and phone companies to mark designated areas with different colored paint (which will last through a few rainfalls) to indicate whatever utilities may happen to be in the planting area. Their automated phone system is easy to use and explains the color coding. If you don’t see any markings after making arrangements with Miss Utility, you should double check with them to be sure there are no lines in the designated planting areas. Planting where lines are located is not prohibited, but you are required to dig by hand in these areas. Use caution; you don’t want to accidentally dig up your phone line, and there may be restrictions to activities in rights-of-way.

In some cases, you will need to clear the area of turf and debris. Check the soil for obstructions such as asphalt, large rocks, or problematic soil texture (e.g., heavy clay or excessive compaction). Turf grass can be removed by hand, with a sod cutter or bobcat, or it will need to be covered for a few months until it is fully dead. If your planting date is a few months away, a convenient way to eliminate turf is to smother it by covering it with either cardboard or layers of newspaper. Add a 3- to 4-inch layer of wood chips or shredded pine mulch on top of either paper product to help hold it in place and create a planting bed (be sure to completely cover all of the grass). In approximately four or more months the vegetation will have died and the cardboard or newspaper will be decomposed enough to easily plant through it.

SOIL

Soil is made up of sand, silt, clay (which are large, medium, and very small rock particles, respectively), and organic matter, in varying proportions. If there is too much clay or silt, the soil tends to become compacted, making it difficult for air, water and roots to penetrate; while too much sand compromises the soil’s ability to retain water and nutrients. Good, workable garden soil consists of airy crumbs in which particles of sand, silt, and clay are held together by decayed organic matter. The organic matter is the decomposed remains of once living things that now provide nutrients for growing plants, as well as improve the structure and texture of the soil.

Soils vary in “pH” rating (the acidity or alkalinity of soil), fertility, and drainage. A pH of 7.0 is neutral. Below 7.0 is acid, and above 7.0 is alkaline. Generally, it is best to install a garden suitable to the conditions you already have. However, plant selection may be limited if your site has very sandy soil, heavy clay, compacted soil, or extreme soil pH (below 5.5 or above 6.8). In these cases, you may want to seek expert advice. Determine the kind of soil you are working with by testing the soil where you plan to install your garden. Do a physical examination of the soil texture and density. Dig down about 6 inches to where the roots will be growing, and pick up a chunk of soil and squeeze it in your hand. If it sticks together and can be squeezed into a long ribbon, it may be heavy with clay which may need to be amended with compost. Classic garden soil has a relatively even mixture of sand, silt, and clay, with a bit less of the clay than the other two. Fortunately, many native plants are able to survive in a range of soil textures. Figure out what type of soil you have, and try to match it with the plants that will do well there.

Soil is often damaged through compaction and excessive use of fertilizers. A well drained soil—generally defined as soil that can absorb 1/2 inch of water or more per hour—creates a good environment for native plants to develop deep roots and take advantage of deep water and nutrients. In the long run this makes for healthy, steady growth. You can test your soil’s infiltration rate by digging a hole 1 foot wide and 1 foot deep; next, pour a bucket of water into it and see how long it takes to soak in. If 1/2 inch or more of water absorbs within an hour, drainage should be adequate. If it takes much longer than that, you may need to amend the soil to improve infiltration.

If needed, the addition of the proper soil amendment can either help soil drain faster or slower. Well composted organic material is an ideal amendment that can improve soil containing too much sand or clay. Compost improves soil texture and fertility by supplying organic matter. It provides a source of slow release nutrients for plants which encourages healthy, balanced growth, thereby reducing disease and pests as well as pruning maintenance. Composting also makes great use of excess yard waste. (See the section on Composting below and Chapter X, “Resources,” for more sources of information on composting.)

Tilling is often unnecessary and can stir up dormant weed seeds. However, if amending the soil is necessary to effectively enhance soil properties, thoroughly blend either compost, topsoil, sand, or combinations of two or three amendments into the planting bed to improve drainage and promote even growth. In the case of rain gardens, if your soil is sandy, simply mix in compost to prepare for planting. If your soil is clay, you may need to remove and replace it with a recommended mixture of 50-60% sand, 20-30% topsoil, and 20-30% compost. (Hint:  Don’t worry about exact ratios. Proportions may vary based on the heaviness of the clay).

Amend the soil only if necessary. If you are landscaping with native plants, this step may not be necessary. Remember, native plants are adapted to local soil conditions (provided the local soil has not been significantly degraded or changed). Many native plants prefer not to have soil that is too rich.

Once planted, the garden should be dressed with a layer of composted mulch such as shredded or chipped pine to a 2- to 3-inch depth.

At the CEC, we have installed several large native plant gardens throughout the ten acres, and amended the soil in only one garden—the SRA Rock ‘N Rain Garden.

CHOOSING AND PURCHASING PLANTS

To develop a feasible garden design it is important to select the appropriate plants for the conditions of your site. Take time to research which plants are native to your area and will be appropriate for your site conditions. You may want to check online to find nurseries that sell native plants (see Chapter X, “Resources,” for native plant suppliers near you), and then take your plan to a nursery to seek their advice. It helps to have some flexibility in your plan since certain species may not be readily available.

Select plants with consideration to: their mature size and shape; leaf appearance; whether they are evergreen or deciduous; bloom structure, color, time of year, and length; seasonal interest; wildlife value; and features such as erosion control and other restoration landscaping values (some of which are covered in the following two chapters). When installing landscapes, common mistakes include planting young trees and shrubs, which will eventually become large, too close to the house or other structures, and planting trees, shrubs, and herbaceous perennials too close together. Consider the mature height of selected plants and how their size will affect your view. Some prairie perennials can grow ten feet tall, which may or may not be a feature you want to include.

A word about those pesky Latin plant names

Gardeners not trained in biology are often thrown off by the "scientific" Latin names for plants. They are, however, very useful for figuring out exactly what plant you are talking about. Think of them as a "first name" and a "last name," which correspond to the genus and species. Using them allows you to discuss a particular plant with a nursery, another gardener, or someone from another part of the world, with certainty that you are talking about the same plant.

However, names change: “Taxonomists seem to love to mess with plant names. Now that plants can be identified right down to their chromosomes, many have turned out to be something other than they [were] thought to be. Just when you get proud of yourself for remembering the name of sweet autumn clematis,Clematis paniculata; it gets changed to
C. maximowicziana, and there is word that this plant may get another name change.” –Ken Druse, The Collector’s Garden

Often the species name is descriptive of the plant in some way, and sometimes the Latin or Greek root gives you a clue in remembering the name.  The species name may describe the plant's color, shape, growth habit, or even a place name like americana or canadensis.  For example, Acer rubrum, is red maple.  The maples belong to the genus Acer; and this species is rubrum, Latin for red.  Sugar maple is Acer saccarum, with saccarum from the Greek word for sugar.

Here is some advice on four areas of plant buying:

1)  HOW MANY PLANTS TO BUY:

Most perennials are planted 1- to 3-feet on center. Determine the number of plants needed by first measuring the areas where each type of plant will be installed. Use the following formula for guidelines on how many plants to buy. Consider adding 10% to account for some attrition, or start by spacing plants slightly closer together for appearance. You can thin most perennials later, however, large shrubs and trees are not as easy to move.

Use this simple formula to calculate the number of plants
needed for your design:

A = Area to be planted (total square feet)

D = Distance plants are spaced apart in feet

N = Number of plants needed

Distance plants are to be spaced apart guidelines:

•     For perennials, use D = 2 feet (use 1.5 feet for slow spreaders, 3 feet for faster spreaders)

•     For shrubs, use D = 5- to 7-feet (based on mature size)

•     For a mixture of trees and shrubs, use D = 10 feet for a naturalistic planting

•     For ornamental trees, use D = crown spread

Formula:  A ÷ D2 = N

For example:  If you decide to plant an entire 100 square foot area with perennials that are spaced 2 feet apart, then you will need 25 plants, or 100 feet ÷ 4 (2 feet squared) = 25.

2) WHAT COMMON CATALOG SYMBOLS MEAN:

Not all nurseries use the same symbols for plant needs.  Be sure to check the catalog.  Many use symbols like those below quoted from Native Plants for Wildlife Habitat and Conservation Landscaping: Chesapeake Bay Watershed, by Britt E. Slattery, Kathryn Reshetiloff, and Susan M. Zwicker, published by the US Fish and Wildlife Service, Chesapeake Bay Field Office. 

LIGHT:  The amount of sunlight a plant requires is defined as:  1) Full
sun (Su), the site is in direct sunlight for at least six hours a day during
the growing season; (2) Partial shade (PS), the site receives approximately three to six hours of direct sunlight; and (3) Shade (Sh), the site receives less than three hours of direct sunlight or filtered light.

MOISTURE:  The amount of soil moisture a plant requires is defined as:  (1) Wet (W), areas where the soil is saturated for much of the growing season, except in droughts. Many of the plants designated for wet areas tolerate specific ranges of water depths. Consult a wetland plant specialist or reference book; (2) Moist (M), areas where the soil is damp, and may be occasionally saturated (“average soil” has been included in this category); and (3) Dry (D), areas where water does not remain after a rain. The latter areas may be in full sun or in a windy location, on a steep slope, or have sandy soil. Plants in this category are drought tolerant and appropriate for a xeriscape garden (see Chapter VI).

3) WHAT SIZE PLANTS TO BUY:

The following information is contributed by Dr. Sara Tangren,
Chesapeake Natives:

“Herbaceous plants are sold in gallon pots (the most expensive), quart pots, as bare root pieces, as seedling plugs, or as seeds (the least expensive). Gallon pots don’t really contain a gallon of soil. They are about 7.5 inches in diameter. Similarly, quart pots contain a bit less than a quart of soil and are about 4 inches wide and are square. Potted plants are ideal for projects where instant visual impact is required. Bare root plants are simply divisions of dormant mature plants. They are called “bare” because they have been removed from the soil. Bare root plants are available from many wholesale nurseries. Depending on which nursery you buy them from, they may come packed in plastic bags, packed in peat moss (a non-renewable resource made by mining living peat bogs), or packed in flats and covered with soil.

“Although bare root plants are affordable, plants packed in plastic bags must be kept out of the sun at all times, and preferably refrigerated until planting. If they are kept too long they will mold and die. “Flats” are 11 inch by 20 inch black plastic rectangles shaped much like a large sheet cake pan. Bare root plants packed in soil inside of flats can be treated much like potted plants, and if kept in the shade and kept moist they will last for weeks or even a few months. Bare root plants should only be used for projects being planted during the dormant season, roughly Thanksgiving to tax day.

“Seedling plugs usually come in sets planted into a molded black plastic tray that looks something like an 11 inch x 20 inch ice cube tray. The number in a tray will depend on the type of tray but typically vary from as few as 48 to as many as 288. Seedling plugs can also be treated like potted plants, but because the “pots” are so tiny (from less than 1/4 inch diameter to 2 inch diameter) they dry out quickly. Most species of seedling will die if allowed to dry out. Seedling plugs may need to be watered daily. Seedling plugs are an especially good buy for species that grow quickly and flower in the first year. They are ideal for colonizing large areas where potted plants would make a project too expensive, or for stabilizing soils where seed would take too long. Ideally seedlings are not planted in the heat of summer unless irrigation is available.

“Seed is the most economical way to plant large areas like wildflower meadows and stormwater management pond banks. Native seed does best if planted in the fall. It is imperative that the ground be well prepared and free of weed seed, or the native seedlings will be difficult to find and care for. Typically, preparation for sowing involves a year of spraying with Round Up or Plateau prior to the planting date. Native seed is sold in packets, ounces, and pounds.”

While planting from seed is the most economical way to establish a garden, a low-cost way to obtain plant stock is to buy seedling plugs, which can be purchased from various sources for $1 each. Bare root herbaceous perennials can be obtained from a number of sources for about $2.50 each. Quart size potted plants are also economical, costing about $5 each. (Prices vary; these are average prices as of 2005.)  You will pay significantly more for large, mature potted plants, although you will have greater instant impact. (See Chapter X for a list of nurseries.)

4) GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS ON PLANT BUYING:

Although some nurseries are beginning to carry a wider variety of native plants, many species are not available from traditional plant nurseries. However, as the demand grows, so does the number of native plant nurseries, as well as native plants species offered in traditional nurseries.

Timing can be a factor in obtaining plants for your garden. It is not possible for suppliers to keep an extensive inventory of native plants and seeds on hand. It is not economically practical for them to grow plants for which they do not have a ready market (however, demand and availability is steadily growing). Be sure to plan ahead, and pre-order plants, especially if you have a large project or require certain species. Remember, if you are good at planning, and your schedule allows, you can grow plants from seed.

Although nurseries may offer “native” plants, many times they are actually cultivars of native plants. Cultivars are varieties which arise in cultivation, not in nature, and they are cultivated to reproduce a particular set of traits. They may not bloom, set seed, or grow in the same way as the true native plants; so they may not be as useful to wildlife. Furthermore, if they are very popular, they may displace the naturally-occurring non-cultivated species by being over-planted in gardens and might spread to the wild. This reduces the genetic diversity in a region. Less genetic diversity also makes a population more at risk for being wiped out by diseases. Ask for true native “species” plants, not cultivars, at your local nurseries. If they notice a demand, they will be more likely to stock them.

If possible, purchase plants propagated from native plants which originated near where you plan to plant them to preserve local genes from those plants and improve your chances of success with a genetic type adapted to your local climate and soils.

PLANTING HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS

No occupation is so delightful to me as the culture of the earth, no culture comparable to that of the garden...But though an old man, I am but a young gardener. –Thomas Jefferson

Enjoy the process, and work in phases if this makes your project more manageable. Develop a planting plan that works best for you.

It is also good to remember that the best planting times are usually fall and spring. If you plant in early spring or late fall, some potted plants may be dormant. Do not mistakenly throw these dormant plants away. They are still alive in their pots, and will green up in the spring. You can plant anytime spring through fall. However, if you plant in the summer, you will need to do more watering.

When removing a plant from a pot, don’t pull it out by its stem or you may damage it. Loosen the root ball, then slide the plant out of the pot. If you find the pot “root bound” or tightly wrapped inside with many roots, it is actually helpful to cut through the base of matted roots with a trowel to separate them before planting. Loosen the root ball with your hand or a trowel, and place the plant in the soil at the same level it was growing in the pot. Firmly press or tamp the ground around the plant with your hands or feet to remove air pockets. Once the plants are installed, add a top dressing of mulch. (See Mulch section below), and give them a good watering to get them growing in their new home.

Plant seedlings 1- to 2-feet on center. Small seedlings, will not look like much for several months, but if you plant in the spring, you will start to see more definition by the fall (and vice versa), and a year later, they will be noticeably more mature. In fact, one foot on center might be too close, but some may not survive, and you can always transplant plants from crowded areas as they mature.

A technique for achieving curvaceous edges is to use a garden hose or heavy rope to help lay out your garden areas. Marking paint and stone can also be used. Before you plant your garden, you may want to use Roundup two or three times to kill weeds, with a couple of weeks in between each application to allow for growth of new weeds.

PLANTING CONTAINER AND “BALLED AND BURLAPPED” (B&B) TREES
(Reprinted with permission from the Department of Natural Resources’ Tree-mendous Maryland Program)

•   If a tree is planted correctly, it will grow twice as fast and live at least twice as long as one that is incorrectly planted. Tree roots need moisture, air, nutrients, and a lot of space to grow. The roots of most trees spread through the top 12 inches of soil, (where the moisture, air, and nutrients are) but over a wide area around the trunk.

•   Select a site with enough room for roots and branches to reach full size. Avoid overhead and underground utilities.

•   Dig a hole as deep as the rootball and 2 to 3 times its diameter. The rootball should be even with the ground level and no deeper.

•   Always handle your tree by the ball, not by the trunk or branches.

•   Help prevent root girdling by vertically cutting any roots that show tendencies to circle the root ball.

•   Backfill the hole, tamping the soil firmly as you go, to remove air pockets. Be sure tree is planted straight.

•   Stake the tree only if it is unable to stand up to high wind, or in danger of vandalism or heavy traffic.

•   Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch on entire area, but not within
3 inches of tree trunk.

•   Water - Water - Water.

 

 

ADDING MULCH

Why mulch?  Adding organic matter, such as shredded leaf mulch, improves soil structure; it also conserves moisture, blocks light that many weed seeds need to germinate, lessens erosion, and is an attractive top-dressing for your planting bed. As a rule-of-thumb, apply mulch to a depth of 2- to 3-inches in planting beds. The depth of mulch to apply will depend upon the type of material used. Be sure to not to bury seedlings or dormant plants, and keep it a few inches from the trunks of trees and shrubs. Commonly used organic mulches include: chipped or shredded wood mulch, such as pine or cypress; pine needles; and shredded leaves. Inorganic mulches include: gravel and other types of stone, and a new product on the market called Treadspread which is made from recycled tires. (Treadspread may be useful in certain instances, like paths; but there is some concern about the leaching of zinc in acid conditions, which can harm plants.)  Note: Do not use regular sheet plastic underneath mulch to reduce weed growth. It prevents water from soaking into the soil and prevents the soil from breathing. Use paper, cardboard, or a permeable plastic such as weed-blocker.

Often, wood chips and finer shredded mulch can be obtained at no cost from municipal and county facilities. But there are two issues to consider before using chipped or shredded wood. First, avoid the use of freshly chipped wood, unless it is for a pathway where you don't want plants to grow. Fresh wood chips will remove the nitrogen plants need from the soil as they decompose. Wood chips should be composted for six or more months before being used in planting beds. Second, hardwood is rich in the mineral manganese. Some experts believe that years of mulching with hardwood mulch will cause toxic accumulation of manganese in the soil, which can sicken and ultimately kill your plants, and that pine mulch or shredded leaves, for example, should be used instead.

Avoid using dyed mulch, which has been shown to have several problems.  In natural settings, dyed mulch is out of character and there are other problems as well. Unlike composted chipped or shredded mulches, dyed mulch tends to be made from ground up waste wood, like pallets and shipping crates. It has the same problems for plants as using newly chipped wood. As it decomposes, it will draw nitrogen from the soil.  Furthermore, some dyed mulch is made from construction debris, containing chemicals such as asbestos or lead paint.17

Remember to keep mulch 3 or more inches away from the base of shrubs and trees and avoid the use of too much mulch. A 2- to 3-inch depth is enough. Excessive mulching too close to the trunks of trees creates unhealthy conditions where soil microbes, insects, and even larger creatures like mice or voles can access the tree bark and damage it. It can also cause girdling roots to form around the base of the tree that could strangle it.

 

To determine the amount of mulch needed:

•    1 cubic yard = 27 cubic feet (9 bags of 3-cubic feet each or 13.5 bags of 2-cubic feet each).

•    A cubic yard of mulch will cover approximately 100 square feet 3 inches deep. A 10 x 20 (200 square feet) garden will require 2 cubic yards of mulch.

COMPOST…IT’S HABITAT FORMING!

Composting is nature’s way of recycling organic material. It is a great way to recycle nutrients from our garden clippings, autumn leaves, and other organic materials and to re-use them by making a valuable soil amendment. Compost is often referred to by gardeners as “black gold.”  By shredding and mixing grass clippings, plant stalks, leaves, twigs, and (where appropriate) kitchen scraps, the rate of decomposition can be increased. Materials that attract pests (such as meat and fat), promote disease (such as pet waste), promote weeds (weed seeds and roots), cause odors, or create other nuisances should not be composted.

Adding yard waste to a compost pile is more convenient than bagging and dragging leaves and grass to the roadside curb. Why throw away, then go and buy a resource you have right in your own backyard?  Usually the most accessible items to add to a compost pile or bin are leaves, shredded cardboard or newspaper (black and white only), sawdust, straw, twigs and other woody materials, which are examples of carbon-rich or “brown” material; while fresh grass and garden clippings, fruit and vegetable scraps, and coffee grounds and filters are nitrogen-rich “green” material. An easy formula to remember is:  “One part green, two parts brown*, makes the yard waste turn to ground. Add some water and some soil, turning is the only toil.”  (*Proportions may vary.) 

If you are trying to be very scientific about composting, and make usable compost in the quickest, most efficient manner, then you can try to mix the optimum amounts of carbon and nitrogen in your compost. About 30 to 1 respectively, by weight, works best. The 30:1 ratio of C:N is an ideal rule of thumb, but should not cause excessive concern. You can look up the exact C to N ratio of different substances you add to compost, as well as suggested recipes for compost piles on the Internet; or just add what you have, and it will probably work pretty well!  Just make sure you have some green and some brown; and try adding a bit of compost or soil to introduce those hard-working microbes; and add water as needed.

Factors to keep in mind:

•   Locate your compost bin or pile in an appropriate area, as close to where it will be used as possible, without being in the way.

•   Shredding yard waste hastens decay.

•   Nitrogen, e.g., fresh grass clippings, accelerates decomposition, although too much nitrogen can cause odors.

•   Air:  The pile or bin should be well ventilated. Turning the pile speeds up the decomposition process.

•   Water:  The compost pile should be kept as moist as a squeezed sponge.

The bin or pile should be at least 3 feet square to ensure enough heat build up. Temperatures of 160 degrees and above will kill most weeds seeds. However, if your pile is very large, it may become difficult to turn. Anaerobic (without oxygen) composting can work too, if you don’t turn or aerate your compost; but it works more slowly and can also generate odors.

There are varieties of bins from which to choose. Some bins can be ordered or purchased from local garden supply retailers, or homeowners can construct their own from cedar, other wood, or recycled wooden pallets. There are also special in-ground bins which are animal resistant and are good for food waste. Another option is a simple compost pile. Even if you don’t mix organic material in certain ratios, and don’t turn or add water to the pile, it will eventually break down into a rich soil amendment.

GARDEN MAINTENANCE

Sweet flowers are slow and weeds make haste. –William Shakespeare

Weeds stand at the forefront of evolution; no doubt they are evolving in my garden at this very moment, their billions of offspring self-selecting for new tactics to outwit my efforts and capitalize on any opening in my garden. Weeds are nature’s ambulance chasers, carpetbaggers, and confidence men. Virtually every crop in general cultivation has its weed impostor, a kind of botanical Doppelganger that has evolved to mimic the appearance as well as the growth rate of the cultivated crop and so ensure its survival. –Michael Pollan

For though we may be the earth’s gardeners, we are also its weeds. And we won’t get anywhere until we come to terms with this crucial ambiguity about our role—that we are at once the problem and the only possible solution to the problem. –Michael Pollan 

The definition of “weed” is usually just “a plant out of place.”  If you have to contend with a population of weeds or invasive plants, there are several options. The best weeding method for the health of the environment is to remove or pull weeds by hand. Many weeds will bounce back if you don’t remove the entire root, so bring along a trowel. Weeding is easier in moist soil after it rains. Other natural techniques are spraying full strength vinegar on young leaves (works well on a hot day), and pouring boiling water over weeds. Mulch and weed-blocker can help reduce this task on pathways and between plants.

If hand removal of weeds is not possible, one may resort to the least-damaging herbicide possible. In some cases it is necessary to use an herbicide containing the active ingredient glyphosate, such as the brand Roundup. This still has minor effects in the soil, but it has been shown to break down fairly quickly in warm weather. It will kill many types of organisms in an aquatic ecosystem and should not be used near surface or groundwater. (An alternative to Roundup for areas near water is the brand called Rodeo. Check with an expert before applying herbicides near water.)  Read the directions and carefully mix glyphosate just before use. It should be applied on a dry, calm day to avoid spreading to plants you want to keep. If you accidentally spray a good plant, keep a watering can handy and immediately rinse off the spray. When using Roundup, the weeds won’t brown and look dead until 1 to 2 weeks after applying it; and you may still want to remove the weeds (but they will be easier to remove, and you will not have to worry about getting all of the roots).

According to the manufacturer, “Roundup enters plants through foliage and moves systemically to the roots, killing weeds by stopping the production of a substance found only in plants. Any product not absorbed by plants breaks down into natural materials without moving in or on the soil to untreated plants. Weeds usually begin to wilt within hours with complete kill in 1 to 2 weeks. One application kills most weeds.”

TRIAL AND ERROR GARDENING

Part of the joy of gardening is working in harmony with nature and fine-tuning over time. As Roger B. Swain tells us, “Nature writes, gardeners edit.”  Among other things, a garden is a form of self-expression that can give body to our wishes. Trial and error gardening will answer many garden questions. In the garden, the voice of experience—distilled, collective, and well worn—speaks volumes. An open, flexible approach to gardening makes it a much more enjoyable experience—one that can also help keep you physically flexible and in shape.

The experienced gardener welcomes in her garden not only the laws of nature, but the play of contingency, too. She is open to happy accidents. Confronted with a problem, she tries this or that, sees what happens, then tries something else. The experienced gardener accepts that a garden is never truly finished; that though she may tame nature for a time, her mastery is temporary at best.

While weeding may be an on-going chore, take consolation in the knowledge that over time, year-by-year, as you reduce the weed population and the native plants fill-in the landscape, the weeding will lessen; and that the time spent weeding will generally be significantly less than the maintenance required for a lawn. 

Study and imitate nature’s ways and means. Enjoy your newly created conservation landscape, minus the droning noise of a gas-powered lawn mower, and filled with the sights and sounds of a wide variety of wildlife attracted to your native plants.

A garden should be in a constant state of fluid change, expansion, experiment, adventure; above all it should be an inquisitive, loving, but self-critical journey on the part of its owner.
–H. E. Bates, English novelist and short-story writer